After far too long away, I am (finally) back. This time, I want to introduce you all to the so-called “Three Helmets City” of Landshut. If you look at its coat of arms below, you will probably guess where the name comes from:
Landshut is a very beautiful, quintessentially Bavarian town, located north-west of Munich. It has a population of more than 60,000 but really does have an almost “villagey” feel to it, particularly when walking through the Altstadt and taking in the stunning pastel-coloured buildings, whilst hobbling along the historic cobbled streets. You feel as if you have gone back in time, especially when you see many of the locals waltzing around in traditional Bavarian dress, which – believe you me – will not be all that much of a rarity.
First stop for us was – as is not unusual with my parents – a cafe. And it had to be a “proper” cafe, which offered all that the heart (and stomach) desired in a wholesome brunch. Where better to go in that case than the Residenzcafe Landshut. Whilst it may not be much to look at on a rainy day – based somewhat in the dungeons of the Stadtresidenz Landshut – when the sun is shining, I would say it is one of the best locations in town. That is because of its wonderful seating area in the heart of the Altstadt, looking onto the Stadtresidenz on the one side and down the Altstadt street on the other. The people watching is fantastic, as is the brunch. And it isn’t even expensive. A real treat, that is for sure.
As for the Stadtresidenz itself, this really is worth a visit once you’re all fuelled up for the day. It dates back to 1536, when the then-Duke of Bavaria, Louis X, laid the foundation stone for it. It was lived in by other Dukes of Bavaria over the years and even served as the student digs of the then-Crown Prince of Bavaria (who went on to become King of Bavaria), Ludwig I, whilst he was studying in Landshut. I bet a good few of you didn’t know that it was in fact Ludwig I’s wedding in 1810 that started off the Oktoberfest in Munich – well, it was. You see, this place is just steeped in history. More of it can be learnt about in the Stadtresidenz, which is now a museum and only costs a few euros to get in (well worth it!).
The next stop along the way should be the Martinskirche (literally St. Martin’s Church in English), which is just down the street. There are many independent (and not-so-independent) shops en route, which are worth perusing around. You may even be able to bag yourself a pair of Lederhosen; I mean, come on, who wouldn’t want some. Women can wear them too.
In any event, the Martinskirche really is a marvel to look at, from both the outside and the inside. Whilst there is a great deal of hustle and bustle along the street outside, entering the church is like entering an oasis in the middle of the city. Nothing can be heard. It is tranquility personified. *sigh* It does some good to take a minute or two to reflect in peace and then look around this historic building. The current church dates back to 1389, when the building works began, and took around 110 years to build, being completed in around 1500. With a height of 130.6 metres (428 ft), the church is the tallest brick building and 2nd tallest brick structure (after the Anaconda Smelter Stack in Montana – it’s always bigger in America, right?) in the world and, to top it off, the tallest church in Bavaria. Bet you didn’t think it was quite that impressive, did you? Well, tick that off of the bucket list.
Hopefully you’re well rested, as the next stop would be the Burg Trausnitz – the castle overlooking Landshut. It is a bit of a hike up (it takes around 20 minutes up a dedicated path – see below), but it is well-and-truly worth it. And there is a beer garden at the top, so you can be safe in the knowledge that a good, cold Bavarian beer awaits you to quench the thirst you will have no doubt built up.
The view from the top is nothing short of breathtaking. You enjoy an uninterrupted view right across the city and can take in all of the highlights from up here, from the pastel-coloured buildings lining the streets and the river Isar meandering through the city to a head-on (or rather side-on) view of Bavaria’s tallest church. In fact, from up here you are somewhat at eye level with the top of the spire. All you need to do now, is take a seat (don’t miss the seating to the side of the castle, slightly around the corner from the main beer garden – the view is better from there), grab yourself a beer (well, order one) and gaze in awe over this beautiful city. Naturally it helps if the sun is shining, which it was when we were there. Otherwise, I’m sure it’s still a wonderful sight.
The castle itself was founded in 1204 and was the home of the Wittelsbach dynasty for over two centuries and later the seat of the rulers of the whole of Bavaria. It is a truly magnificent building, again oozing in history and thus absolutely worth taking a look inside of. It only costs €5.50 to get in (tip: if you get a combination ticket for both the castle and the Stadtresidenz, you save a smooth euro) and is jam-packed full of beautiful things to marvel at. You could spend hours here – and that’s before the beer garden. 😉
To sum up, if you are in Munich for any reason (and boy are there many reasons to be in Munich), it really is worth a trip out to Landshut, especially as it is only ca.40-45 minutes away by train. Add into the mix that the trains to Landshut are almost always regional trains and thus eligible for the exceptionally good value “Bayern Tickets” (€23 for one person + €5 for every additional person up to five people) and you have a “no brainer” – it is a must!
If you do head on out there, let me know what you think. I know that you won’t be disappointed.
Grüße aus Bayern,
The Bavarian Englishman
The Bavarian Englishman 